Wari Hat

Lesson by Leisa Rich, Atlanta, GA

Scroll down for the lesson, or Download lesson PDF HERE

The Wari was a civilization that thrived around 500-900 A.D. in the south-central Andes and coastal area of modern day Peru. Works of art were an important way the Wari communicated. The textiles of the Wari were intricately woven, utilized complex designs, and were among the finest made in the region. The items made included headbands called Diadem (Diadem also referring to jeweled, metal crowns), hats, beautiful woven tunics that signified wealth and importance, and everyday items. Everything was made from wools and cotton. All of the fibers had to be spun, dyed and woven by hand. They were able to glean stunning, intense colors from natural dyes, colors that have held up well over time. Animal motifs were often used. In addition, as the Wari had no writing system, these textiles were an important means of communication. They spoke of humans, the natural, and even the supernatural realms through the subject matter used in the textiles. Being informed about, and inspired by, the past is helpful when creating. In this lesson, we’ll use the inspiration of the Wari history: its creations, motifs and techniques, to work on a hat design that can reflect our personal, creative ideas in the contemporary world of today.

Resources

Jacquard Dye-Na-Flow Textile and Silk Paint Blick Art Materials Video –https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0D6l8haps4
How to Hand Applique: Part One – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axDBl7lJuJs
Learn Hand Embroidery with Me: Basic Stitches, Part 1, (for beginners) –https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qs7eOH5Uac

Textile in the Form of a Glove, Wari, Peru, 650-800 C.E. Retrieved from:http://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/75099/Textile_in_the_Form_of_a_Glove

Tools & Materials

One yard of stiff fabric such as heavy cotton or upholstery cotton, that can be hand painted, stenciled and hand sewn. Preferably white or cream colored.
1 large upholstery sewing needle.
One spool of thread. Quilting thread is a good, strong choice. Black color will work well.
Embroidery floss in your choice of colors. A variety of 6-7 is great!
6” embroidery hoop
Embroidery needle (you can also use the upholstery needle!)
1 pc. poster board.
1 X-ACTO knife and a couple of new blades. OR a box cutter.
1 self-repairing cutting mat suitable for X-ACTO cutting.
A selection of opaque fabric paints.
A selection of Dye Na Flow fabric dyes.
A few paintbrushes, sponge rollers
Sketch paper, pencil, sharpener and eraser.
Fabric markers, 1 thick Sharpie paint marker in black
fabrics you have at home that you may want to incorporate.
A little quilt batting for applique.
Tassles (sometimes they embellished the hat points with these!)
Blow dryer, iron & ironing board.
Hat pattern (at the end of this lesson)

Objectives

Students will create a 3 dimensional hat based on the design of the Wari culture
Students will design a pattern that reflects their interpretation of Wari design motifs
Students will use different surface design techniques to embellish the design they have created
Students will sew and construct their handmade cloth into a hat that fits them

Four Cornered Hat, Wari, Peru, 650-1000 C. E. Retrieved from:http://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/51469/Four-Cornered_Hat

Procedures Creating the Painted Fabric

Step 1 – Create hat pattern (at end of lesson) to fit diameter of head plus seam allowance for sewing together. Trace the hat pattern onto the canvas or cloth to see where the design should go.

Step 2 – Layout fabric on a waterproof surface and paint a basic design with dye inside the hat pattern outline.

Step 3 – Blow dry in between layers of dye and fabric pain throughout the process.

Step 4 – Design stencils on poster board and cut out with X-ACTO mat knife or scissors.

Step 5 – Using a brush or stencil brush and fabric paint, carefully stencil designs onto dry painted surface. Dry with the blow dryer and iron.

Step 6 – To create bands of color, use tape and roll fabric paint on. Dry with the blow dryer and pull the tape off.

It is important that the design is ironed to heat set!

Finished design – spritzing design with diluted brown DyeNaFlow to achieve an aged look.

Step 7

Painted cloth cut out in shape of hat pattern.

Cut slits in each side of the triangle points BUT NOT ALL OF THE WAY THROUGH! Now you are ready to sew your hat together!

ProceduresSewing the Hat Together

Step 1 – Put the two sides of each triangle together and sew up each side (do all four) and turn them right side out:

Step 2 – Sew up the back seam of the hat:

Step 3 – Push the triangles flat into the good side of the hat:

Step 4 – Sew (right sides together) the top of the hat to the body of the hat, with the triangles in between the layers:

Step 5 – Turn right side out.

Procedures

Other Paint Techniques

Use the dye in a watercolor technique:

Use the roller brush to apply translucent layers of dye:

Create lines like weaving warp threads by dragging the side of the roller or the wood end of a paintbrush through the dye.

Procedures

Other Paint Techniques

Continue adding layers until desired effect:

Add designs in other colors:

Create a wash over the entire surface:

Outline shapes and designs in contrasting colors:

Apply appliquéd fabric shapes to incorporate into design:

Tacky Glue can be used to attach fabric shapes for applique:

National Core Arts Standards

Use multiple approaches to begin creative endeavors.
Shape an artistic investigation of an aspect of present-day life using a contemporary practice of art and design.
Demonstrate willingness to experiment, innovate, and take risks to pursue ideas, forms, and meanings that emerge in the process of art-making or designing.
Explain how a person’s aesthetic choices are influenced by culture and environment and impact the visual image that one conveys to others.
Distinguish different ways art is used to represent, establish, reinforce, and reflect group identity.

Four Cornered Hat, Wari, Peru, 5^th-9^th C.E. Retrieved from:http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1994.35.158

Vocabulary

Applique – a decoration made by cutting a piece of fabric into a shape and applying it to the surface of another fabric with an adhesive or hand or machine stitching.
Opaque – not able to see through; not transparent.
Resist – is the incompatibility of two materials that allow layering or blocking of one material into another.
Stencil – a thin layer of cardboard or plastic that can have a design cut away to allow paint or color to be applied to the surface in the shape of the design.
Translucent – in paint or dye, a thin layer that allows the underlying fabric to show through the color.
Weaving – a process of creating fabric by interlacing long threads passing in one direction with others at a right angle to them.

Detail Four Cornered Hat, Wari, Peru, 5^th-9^th c. Retrieved from:http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1994.35.158